（本文刊登於昇恆昌《Voyager》 機場誌第 17 期 / This article is published on the 17th issue of EVER RICH Voyager magazine.）
曾經是為追求所愛學習製作巧克力的少年，如今是把巧克力當成真愛。對畬室的主廚鄭畬軒來說，「巧克力」不僅僅是吃在嘴裡、甜在心裡的美味，而是那條他十年前選擇、只能用純粹與極致決勝負的一條路。
Ten years ago, he learned to make chocolates for his girlfriend, but later on in the life chocolate has turned out to be his true love. To Yu-Hsuan, the young chef of Yu Chocolatier, chocolate is not only a sweet delight, but a world in which excellence and perfection rule.
自學巧克力 5 年，卻因為忘不了一顆 La Maison du Chocolat 的巧克力帶來的震撼，畬軒決定至法國巴黎學藝，回溯巧克力技藝的本源，親炙當地生活、風土與文化。他在巴黎不僅學習巧克力、更學各種經典法式甜點製作。在三星餐廳 Ledoyen 與巧克力名店 Jacques Genin 實習後，他立志有一天要帶著自己的巧克力回到這個城市，讓巴黎與世界都記住這個名字。
Once stunned by the rich flavors of a chocolate from La Maison du Chocolat, a renowned French chocolate brand, Yu-Hsuan decided that he must go to Paris if he ever wants to become a real professional. Five years after he had been teaching himself chocolate-making, Yu-Hsuan set off for France, where chocolate craftsmanship originated. During the year of his stay, he learned not only chocolate but French pastry as a whole. He immersed himself in French culture, experiencing in person their terroir and style of living. He interned at Pavillon Ledoyen, a legendary 3 Michelin star restaurant, and Jacques Genin, one of the best Parisian chocolate shops as part of the school program. The young chocolatier then made up his mind to come back to Paris with his own chocolates. His name shall be known by then to the city and to the whole world.
法國經驗 自己風土和文化結合才深刻 / Rooted in own culture and terroir
和許多甜點人走的路大不相同，他並未在法國留下繼續深造，選擇帶著磨練後的技藝回到台灣。他觀察法國的東西之所以偉大，是因為深刻地與自己的風土、文化結合。「我身為東方人，如果希望有一天能在那麼強的地方站立起來，不可能作純法式的東西，而是要展現自己的獨特之處與內涵，那內涵就是台灣」他說。
Many of his fellows might choose to stay and continue to work until they have a chance to open their own shops, but Yu-Hsuan decided to get back to Taiwan with the polished skills. “What the French offer are deeply rooted in their own terroirs and culture, and that’s what makes them great,” he observed. “As an Asian, I have to show the uniqueness of our culture rather than making French things if I ever want to make my name there.” “And that very essence is Taiwan,” he emphasized.
巧克力與甜點的創作邏輯截然不同，法式甜點將多重元素、層次合而為一，但巧克力更著重由單純的結構凸顯一兩種特殊的風味、放大感官的感受。也因此，巧克力師對「風味」的掌握更形重要，「身為一個風味創作者，我希望能藉著回到台灣，學習 如何使用自己土地的味道，除了如何到位、不做作地呈現之外，還能有自己的風格」他補充。
The logic of chocolate-making is completely different from that of pastry-making. While French pastries show a harmony of multiple elements, a chocolate brings out one or two specific flavors and magnifies them in a simple composition. It is therefore very important for a chocolatier to work on flavors. “As a flavor creator, I hope to learn more about the local flavors and to present them in a natural yet accurate way. In my own style, of course,” he added.
故鄉滋養 台灣風味的巧克力 / Nourished by the homeland
回到台灣，磨練的不僅是對巧克力風味的掌握能力，更是如何在主廚、管理者、經營者多重身份中切換、思考自己與品牌未來的走向。成立於 2015 年的畬室，在短短數年間，已是國際旅客來到台灣的首選巧克力品牌。2016 年畬室是首位參加世界巧克力大賽的台灣品牌，甫參賽便奪下美洲亞太區一銀一銅的佳績，隔年更奪下四銀一銅。去年路易威登發表臺北版城市指南《Taipei City Guide》，畬室也是唯一上榜的巧克力品牌。
Not only has Yu-Hsuan been working on flavors since he got back to Taiwan, but he’s also been learning to switch among different roles, such as chef, manager, and business owner. He has never stopped asking where he and the brand are going to. Inaugurated in 2015, Yu Chocolatier is now considered a top chocolate brand among international travelers visiting Taiwan. The brand has won one silver and one bronze medal the first time it entered the International Chocolate Awards in 2016. The next year Yu has been further awarded by four silvers and one bronze. When Louis Vuitton published their Taipei City Guide, Yu Chocolatier is the sole chocolate shop listed.
至於當初離開法國前，對自己立下的誓言呢？「我原本心裡只有模糊的『5年參展、十年開店』的目標，沒想到這一天來得這麼快。」2017 年 10 月底，畬室受邀前往巴黎參加全球最大的巧克力盛事「Salon du Chocolat Paris 巴黎世界巧克力大展」，他帶著故鄉風土滋養的巧克力、千錘百鍊的自己，在世界舞台上與心目中的大師、國際品牌同台競技，獲得高度肯定迴響，讓自世界各地的巧克力熱愛者都印象深刻，「不知道台灣的人會很驚訝，這是哪裡來的巧克力？知道台灣的人更訝異台灣竟然可以做出這樣的巧克力」他說，更有客人在品嚐後念念不忘，第2天重複買票進場、第3天則介紹朋友來到畬室的攤位。
“I only had a vague idea that I might participate in Salon du Chocolat in five years and open my own shop in Paris in 10 years. I’ve never imagined that it would come so soon,” Yu-Hsuan recalled the day he swore to himself while leaving France. Last October, Yu Chocolatier was invited to join the 2017 edition of the salon, the world’s largest event dedicated to chocolate. Entering the world stage, this thoroughly-tempered young man brought along chocolates nourished by his homeland and got warmly welcomed by chocolate lovers from all over the world. “People were impressed. Those who didn’t know about Taiwan were surprised and then curious about the origin of those chocolates. Those who did know were surprised, too, since they didn’t realize that a Taiwanese chocolatier could make such great ones,” he remarked. There were even customers who loved so much Yu’s chocolates that they came back the following day, buying another ticket, and then sent their friends there the next day.
快閃巴黎 以實體店為目標 / One step closer to a physical store in Paris
將台灣的風土透過自法國習得的技藝發揮，畬室的巧克力，以精練的國際飲食語言講台灣的故事。在巴黎5天的展期中引起熱烈反響，更堅定了畬軒將品牌帶回巴黎的雄心。他計畫於年底在巴黎開設快閃店，藉此經驗更加瞭解法國市場狀況與營運方式，為將來的實體店面打下基礎。畬軒說巧克力「易學難精」，需幾經思考、反覆錘鍊才能完美呈現其中風味。他一路走來從未鬆懈、總用最高標準要求自己，夢想的實現也許來得很快，但腳下的每一步卻從不輕巧。因為巧克力是對完美無止盡的探求與追索，也是對自己十年苦功的回應。
Taiwan’s local flavors well-cultivated by French craftsmanship, Yu’s chocolates are telling fascinating stories of Taiwan in an international language. The highly positive response received during the five days of Salon du Chocolat has strengthened Yu-Hsuan’s determination to bring his brand to Paris. He planned to setup a pop-up store there by the end of the year in order to get more familiar with the French market and business operations. A physical store in the city of light is foreseen in the near future. “Chocolate-making is easy to learn but difficult to master. One always has to think and experiment over and over before reaching the perfect state,” Yu-Hsuan told us. As a perfectionist, he never ceases to push himself further. Dreams might be coming true soon but the way to it has been paved with non-stop effort. Exhibiting a perpetual quest for excellence, Yu’s chocolates also seem to answer Yu-Hsuan’s endless endeavors made in the last decade.
特別推薦給國際朋友的台灣特色巧克力 / Recommended for the international visitors
a. 雪莉桂圓：選用宜蘭噶瑪蘭雪莉桶威士忌、來自巴布亞紐幾內亞的煙燻木質調巧克力，及嘉義中埔鄉柴燒桂圓， 在「煙燻」的主調下調和三種不同的風味與香氣，是一款用國際語言訴說台灣故事的特色之作。
Sherry Longan: One of the iconic creations of Yu Chocolatier. Marrying smoky and woody dark chocolate from Papua New Guinea with Kavalan Sherry Cask whisky from Yi-Lan and wood-fired longan from Jia-Yi, the three accords of smokiness create an inimitable sensational vortex.
b. 一翦梅： 手工漬釀兩年的青梅，歲月淘去酸澀，只留齒口生津的芳美。四款產地巧克力的苦甜細膩烘托梅子的酸甘醇香，甘納許中刻意保留梅肉，品嚐時猶能回味悠長的時光風韻。
Aged Plum: Four grand crus chocolates paired with hand-picked green plums pickled and matured for two years, this creation is a praise to the magic of time. The vibrant acidity of green plums is rendered soft and mellow and adds a solid yet elegant depth to the bitter-sweet chocolate ganache. Plum fruit is kept with care to preserve its original grace.